I wanted something super cute and quick for summer! I didn’t know that McCall’s 8219 was going to be such a huge love when I picked this pattern up! I talked about how I liked it in an Instagram Live haul I did! I had gotten several 1 yard cuts of bamboo spandex fabric from Joann and it was only fate that they become this top!
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Before I cut out loads of this top I wanted to make sure my fit and construction was what I wanted! So, I suppose you could call this version a muslin! 🙃 A wearable muslin for sure! The only adjustment I made was to add 3” to the bottom band of this pattern. The bottom band is folded in half so it added 1.5” to the length overall!
I chose to cut out version A. I did decide to leave the sleeves on the pattern because I thought they were adorable! I was already skeptical about the seam binding and the bias tape finish for this pattern. I cut a size 12 for this pattern. I am absolutely obsessed with how fast this pattern comes together and it is flying under the radar right now. It took me 30 MINUTES of construction time! Yessssssss! I was extremely excited about this design and I feel like it’s going to be a staple in my summer wardrobe!
This pattern uses so little fabric that I feel like it could very well end up in the scrap buster lineup especially for knits. My large scrap pile is what I’ve really been needing to dig into to make tops. With 3/4 of a yard, I could get a sleeveless version of this top —easy! I don’t have very many patterns I can say that with either!
I played around with the construction a bit on the first version so these are the changes I made. I eliminated the back binding step (steps 3-6) and instead I did something different to finish the back neckline. I finished the edge with my serger while adding 1/4” clear elastic! I made a narrow hem with the elastic as my guide. I’m using a 3 step zigzag to keep this neckline from popping stitches! Super fast and the neckline can still be somewhat elastic without stretching out over time. I also added clear elastic to the shoulder seams (steps 8-9).
I chose to also construct the sleeves a little bit differently as well. I did a narrow hem on the sleeve edge. I finished the raw edge first, then I used that overlocked edge as a guide to hem with a three step zigzag. Then, I sewed the under arm seam. Then, I took the tail end of the overlocking to the wrong side by the hem and folded the seam over that tail. I then used a bar tack to secure the seam over top of the serging tail. It keeps the arm hole looking nice.
I also realized that I was not going to need to do the ease stitches because I’m fairly confident with easing a sleeve into an armscye. I think it might be useful if you have a fabric that is not a four way stretch fabric like the one that I’m using.
I had a terrible fit when I first tried it on. I recommend that you mark very clearly where the center front is on your top pieces. I matched the wrong notches up but once I realized that the fit us pretty good! I like the adjustments I made but I think I will lengthen the top bodice by at least a 1/2” when I cut out more versions of this top!
2 thoughts on “McCall’s M8219”
Thanks for your tips. I have made this top twice now! I made the long sleeve version. The bust seam doesnt sit under the bust. So if you are busty it might not work. I used stay tape on one at shoulders and the binding on neck. Also taped the hem on bodice and sleeves. Great tip about the clear elastic. Thanks again. MONIQUE
I noticed that about the bust seam too! Binding sounds so good for the front! I’ll have to see how I like that finish! The clear elastic was what this top needed for sure! 💕