Happy Birthday Zaji-Kali! 🎈What are you wearing on your special day?
I’m Glad you asked! My husband, myself and my daughter went to the Denver Zoo on my birthday this year! In the past, I made us all matching outfits. This year I decided that I wanted a much more chill experience there and to really spend my time deciding, sewing and enjoying my birthday outfit! Let’s get into those details, shall we?!
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McCall’s 8218 is chic romper or jumpsuit that has an overlay that looks like a separate top worn over loose pants/shorts. I love a good dress, but HELLO one-piece outfit! I like this style very much. Very much! I cut a size 10 for version A. When I saw this pattern, I didn’t think it would be one that I would need to size down in. However, McCall’s patterns can be quite inconsistent in some ways. I think it comes down to which designer is drafting the patterns. The starting block doesn’t seem to be consistent either way. For reference, my bust measures 36” and I should be a size 14 based on their pattern envelope suggestions. I usually still cut a size 12, as that suits the wearing ease that is flattering for me. But this pattern is made with knits so the positive ease they have in this pattern would look way too baggy for my liking. Size 10 it is.
I changed several features of this pattern’s construction. As you know, I prefer my garments to be finished very cleanly. This pattern had several facings, although it was essentially already lined. I knew that I was going to disregard those facings before I even started sewing. I have worked up several sleeveless knit garments at this point and the best practices I’ve discovered have stuck around for me. Once I find a method I like, I will tend to stick to it.
Let’s start with adjustments I made! I added 1.5” to the overlay and bodice pieces. This is my standard adjustment for McCall’s patterns. I contemplated adding length to the rise for the shorts but decided against that because I knew this rayon fabric would be very loose fitting over time. Now that I have sewn this pattern up, I think I will further adjust the bodice and overlay pieces by raising the armscye openings to be an inch higher. I was wearing a handmade bra in these photos, but I’m fairly certain my bra would show on the sides even if I were wearing a RTW bra as well.
I’m going to talk about how I actually constructed this pattern. If you would like a video showing how I did this, please comment and let me know! I love this pattern so much that I want to make a long pants version to wear in the colder months!
You will cut everything out as instructed for your pattern, minus the fabric of the facing pieces. You will still need to cut the interfacing. Well, I highly suggest you do for a cleaner finish and to help prevent the neck and armholes from stretching out. Iron the interfacing to the wrong side of the front and back bodice pieces, as manufacture stipulates.
- Let’s start sewing!
- With the right sides together, sew the front bodice to the back bodice at the shoulder seams. Repeat with the front overlay and back overlay.
- Now, you will want to mark your stitching line for the front and back v of the necklines with a removable marker of some sort. I use my frixion pen to draw those lines on to the overlay pieces.
- Then, align sewn bodice and overlay pieces with right sides together at the shoulder seams. You will pin and sew the front and back v for about 2″ on either side of the point with a longer straight stitch. This step makes your neckline very, very crisp when you turn it through! Continue sewing the rest of the neckline, making sure to secure the stitches at the beginning and end. Do no sew over the previously stitch v’s.
- Clip the v and trim seam allowance. Press the seam towards the bodice and understitch the seam to the bodice.
- Use the Burrito method to sew the armcyce together. Sew the bodice side seams together and then the overlay side seams together. Now you will follow the instructions for hemming the overlay and constructing the front ties. Then the pants or shorts instructions to complete the garment.
WOW! Wasn’t that easier and cleaner? I love this method of construction! It came together within a couple hours and I am thrilled with the final result! I cannot wait to make another M8218!